Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is a skincare ingredient that quickly delivers numerous benefits when applied in a well-formulated exfoliating product (1). When used in a pH-correct formula (whether designed to be left on skin or in a high-strength peel that’s rinsed after several minutes), lactic acid works by gently breaking the bonds that hold dead,dry skin cells.
Lactic acid benefits
Lactic acid (as sodium lactate) is part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor, or NMF. It’s hydrating because of its unique structure that allows it to bind water within skin (1).
What are the effects of lactic acid on hyperpigmentation? Concentrations of 5-12% help fade signs of discoloration by hastening the shedding and renewal of surface cells that have a visible buildup of excess pigment (1,2).
Its discoloration-fading results also apply to post-breakout marks involving excess melanin (skin pigment) and it helps hasten the fading of pink-to-red post-breakout marks (4). Learn whether an AHA-exfoliant with lactic acid is safe to use during pregnancy.
Several studies on people have shown that in amounts between 8-12%, it improves signs of sun-damaged skin, including fine lines, wrinkles, and rough texture (1,2).
Because lactic acid strengthens skin’s barrier by encouraging it to make more ceramides, a key component of healthy skin, it’s often recommended for sensitive skin, although all skin types can use it (5).
A little-known fact is that lactic acid is also an antioxidant; it can squelch heavy metals that may be present in water, preventing them from attacking healthy cells and releasing collagen-degrading enzymes (2,6,9).
Lactic acid also strongly influences skin’s microbiome, helping to keep its first line of defense strong by positively interacting with a neuropeptide in skin’s surface known as Substance P, resulting in quick diffusion of signs skin is stressed (2,7).
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1. International Journal of Dermatology, March 2019, ePublication
2. Molecules, April 2018, ePublication
3. Journal of the American Dental Association, April 2016, pages 255-263
4. Cutis, January 2016, pages E9-E11
5. Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, October 2018, pages 491-497
6. The Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16-22
7. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2020, pages 116-126
8. Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
9. International Journal of Dermatology, September 2018, ePublication
